Something Old and Something New: Pairing Heirloom and Modern Jewelry
When I got married, I didn’t register for fine china. I knew that one day, my paternal grandmother’s china would become mine. The china was passed down to my father, and as my dad’s only daughter, the torch has been passed to me. For years, I ogled the china in my mother’s china cabinet, amazed at the gold leaf and scalloped edges whenever the china was paraded out at holiday mealtimes. And now it graces my dining room table for an annual Christmas dinner party my husband and I throw for some good friends.
My favorite heirloom (which is just something of value that is passed down from generation to generation, according to Merriam Webster) is my china (and a charming wooden rocking chair that belonged to my other grandmother when she was a girl). But some people (men and women alike) are blessed to have jewelry passed down to them. Most people find it an honor to be entrusted with such a special part of their family’s legacy. But that honor doesn’t come without its trials and challenges. As with all things antique, styles and fashion have come and gone. And often come back again. The challenge then becomes how to incorporate your antique jewelry with more modern pieces.
With that in mind, I thought it would be fun to talk through a couple of ideas about how to pair heirloom jewelry with your own collection of current pieces. These tips and tricks don’t just apply to fine jewelry (gold and diamonds and gemstones OH MY!); they’re useful for costume and fashion jewelry too. So whatever treasures and storied history your jewelry box is hiding, give it a new voice by pairing it with some new baubles.
One of the first things to consider with heirloom diamond jewelry is the cut of the diamond. Over time, diamond cutting has evolved, from hand cutting to machine cutting. When you have a hand-cut diamond, a round diamond may not be perfectly round. Also, consider the Old European cut. It might look like a round brilliant cut (the round diamonds you’re likely to see nowadays), but it actually is quite different. First of all, there are fewer, but larger, facets. Also, if you were to look at the stone straight on, you would see a black hole, slightly off center. This is caused by the culet being cut off. The very tip of the culet is flattened out, which causes light to get absorbed through the culet, as opposed to reflecting back through the stone. That is why you get a black spot. It doesn’t mean your diamond has inclusions (tiny imperfections which can sometimes decrease the beauty and value of the stone); it is just a hallmark of the cut. You’ll notice similar characteristics with the rose cut and the mine cut. All of these heirloom diamond cuts have a look that is less dazzle, and more glow.
The cut of the stones is important because it will help you choose good counterparts from a modern collection. For example, instead of pairing an piece of jewelry with antique cut stones with modern brilliant cut diamonds (doing so would call attention to the less dazzling antique stones), consider pairing your antique jewelry with gold jewelry that has been diamond cut. Diamond cut gold jewelry looks faceted like a diamond. This results in a slight dazzle and glitter to the gold, but without the hallmark scintillation (rainbow-colored fire) that diamonds exhibit. With diamond cut gold, you’ll still get some sparkle, but it won’t outshine your heirloom diamond jewelry.
Another option is to throw caution to the wind and go straight for something bold. Instead of trying to match the two styles up, try to focus on one element that your old and new jewelry have in common. If your antique ring is white gold (which many are, actually, especially if your piece is from the early to mid-1900s (Art Deco and World War II era), focus on that. Combine your heirloom with other white gold pieces. Metal matching isn’t the only common ground though, especially with the popularity of mixing metals. I am a big fan of mixing metals; in fact, my wedding set is two-tone white and yellow gold and I am eagerly anticipating a rose gold anniversary band in 2017 (I’ll feel just like Audrey Hepburn! Check out this blog for her well-known wedding set). If your antique jewelry has gemstones, find other pieces of modern jewelry that use that same gemstone or color.
The last word I’ll leave you with is this: go with your gut. Sometimes, if you just can’t seem to make sense of your options and how to pair pieces up, take a step back. Take a deep breath. And let the jewelry speak to you. It seems like an odd idea, I get it. But I have found that if I just start pairing things that make me feel the same way, whether that is beautiful, edgy, sweet, or daring, then the pieces will go together. Even if they have nothing in common. Because in the end, all of your jewelry has one thing, the most important thing in common: YOU.
Until next time,
Rebecca
Share This Page:
